Grand Falls, New Brunswick
Years ago my mother showed me a weathered newspaper clipping she’d found within the pages of an old notebook that had come home in one of my father’s famous auction sale hauls. The brittle, yellowed poem told the tale of Malabeam, a Maliseet Indian princess who was captured by an enemy tribe. When instructed to take them to her people, whom they intended to slaughter, she instead led their canoes down a deadly New Brunswick rapids to their deaths. Malabeam, of course, went with them. (Accounts vary, with some believing Malabeam survived the event, though her mother perished in the canoes). In any case, sometime after the fact, the Maliseet began calling the falls, Checanenekeag – Destroyer Place. 
The town itself owes its name to the area’s original settlers, the French, who called it “Grand Sault” – Grand Falls in English. It’s home to the largest waterfall in the province of New Brunswick, thanks to a sudden twenty-three metre drop in the St. John River. Luckily, the Zip Zag zipline, stretching right across the falls, is about the closest you’ll come to meeting your maker as those unlucky Mohawk warriors did at the hands of Malabeam.
Observing it in person, hearing the thunderous roar of the rapids as the water crashes down to the waiting rocks below, one can only imagine the terror that Malabeam must have felt that day. Yet, she was the only one in that large group of canoes who may also have felt a strange calm as she plunged to her death, knowing that her sacrifice would save her entire village.
These days the falls serve a less legendary, yet still important purpose. The Grand Falls Generating Station helps power the province. It’s one of seven hydroelectric dams operated by NB Power. 
While in Grand Falls, I stayed at a favourite overnight spot, the Pres du Lac/Quality Inn, located just off the highway. Years ago when my children were young, we would rent one of the small cottages on the property and the kids could roam the grounds to burn off all that “trapped in the car for hours” energy. Nowadays, traveling alone has allowed me the luxury of staying in the main part of the hotel, closer to the lobby, restaurant and bar.
The service is unequaled. I arrived without reservations, and Roger speedily checked me in at the front desk with the usual charm I have come to expect. The dining room, open until nine p.m., was a welcome retreat after my trip to the falls – still a chilly expedition at this time of year. I ordered the Chicken Brioche and enjoyed it with a glass of Ambiance – a New Brunswick red wine. Lovely.
The rooms are always well-appointed. When first checking in you may sense a “dated” atmosphere, which is only owing to the fact that this hotel has been serving satisfied travelers for so many years. Upon further inspection you will find the rooms incredibly clean and neat as a pin. Some establishments fall apart after many years, but the Pres Du Lac has maintained its high level of excellence, which I believe is due in no small part to its wonderful staff and clean, welcoming rooms. A great spot in which to stay when you stop in at Grand Falls to learn more of Malabeam’s story!
A trip to Grand Falls a number of years ago. I’m posing here with my son Zander, and of course, Malabeam!